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For many
decades, the Men's Dress Furnishings Association was a resource
for men's dress shirts and ties for manufacturers, retailers and
consumers. Today, the MDFA lives on in spirit through
ShirtsAndTies.org
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 Everything
You Need To Know About Ties
A tie is a tie, is a tie - or is it?
When you’ve found the color and pattern
you like, what else is there? Actually, it’s only the beginning.
Just like a suit or a dress shirt, you get what you pay for, and it takes
an educated eye to recognize the difference.
Tie Construction
Tie
construction is multi-faceted, and precision and good workmanship
are crucial to wearability and longevity. Some 22 manufacturing
steps go into the making of that simple strip of fabric.
In a quality
tie you’ll find good outer fabrics, resilient construction, proper
interlinings and luxurious finishing touches.
When
examining that next tie you want to buy, look for bias cutting of
the lining and tie fabrics, which allows the tie to recover from
wrinkling. Slip, another important feature, is a loose stitch that
will yield when tied. Today, most ties are machine slip-stitched
with resilient thread.
Tie Interlinings
While many
types of interlinings are used, the most popular is a blend of wool,
acrylic and polyester. A properly weighted interlining will give the
tie a luxurious feel, knot easily and remain wrinkle free. By the
way, it is a myth that the more stripes on a tie's interlining the
better the quality of the tie.
The number of
stripes merely denotes the weight of the interlining and is a guide
to the manufacturer for matching the respective weights of the
interlining and outer fabric. Heavier linings are needed to balance
lightweight fabrics and conversely, lightweight linings compliment a
heavier weight outer fabric.
Both the tie
linings and outer shell are made up of separate pieces of fabric,
sewn together at the neckband and positioned under the shirt collar,
where no seams will show.
Tie Tipping
As part of
the sewing process, the tips of the tie are hemmed or "tipped" by
machine or sometimes by hand, in the case of more expensive ties.
These finishing touches add to the quality and luxury of the
product. Hand rolling or tipping is often the hallmark of higher
priced neckwear, and means that the tie tips are folded back and
stitched by hand. "Facing" is another luxury process, where an extra
piece of material is sewn to the back ends of a tie, from 2" to 11"
in length, to add greater protection and longevity.
Careful pressing after sewing assures that tie edges have a "roll"
or fullness, and do not lie flat. Bar tacking, another luxury
feature, is a heavy stitch just above the apex of the inverted "V"
of either or both ends of a tie. It reinforces the slip stitching
process and results in greater quality and value.
Tie Care
Your
neckties are among the easiest items in your wardrobe to maintain.
However, they are not zero maintenance. Here are few tips that will
ensure you will be wearing the favorite tie until it goes out of
style.
Always remove your tie by unknotting it. A tie is constructed in a
manner that it can be tied in a knot and not wrinkle. This is called
Resilient Construction. However, to recover its shape the tie must
“rest” unknotted in a hanging position.
Always hang your ties, except knits which should be rolled and
stored in a drawer. As noted, hanging enables the tie to recover
from knotting. However, if you can’t hang your ties, rolling them is
preferable to folding. Folding can set a permanent crease in the
tie.
Allow a tie to “rest” several days between wearings.
Never iron a necktie. Ties have rolled edges that are ruined by
pressing. If you feel the tie must be ironed, take it to a
professional cleaner who is equipped to handle ties.
Water spots on silk ties can usually be removed by rubbing the
fabric together in the effected area. Greasy spots should be
professionally cleaned.
Chose your dry cleaner carefully. Ask if they have the forms
necessary to safely press a necktie. If they don’t, either go
elsewhere, or specify that the tie not be pressed. There are mail
order firms that specialize in cleaning ties.
When traveling, either roll the tie or place it in a tie travel
case.
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